| on the belt to break the stud. I've seen a few engines come in here where the nut/washer was completely loose from the stud and kept from falling into the lower t-belt area because the pulley face was riding right up against the t-belt cover. The stud still didn't break - the valvetrain simply does not put enough load on the belt to screw up the studs. The only reason you'll put enough load on the studs is if the tensioner bottoms out before the engine is up to temp - then the expansion of the engine will cause the t-belt to tighten up, thus loading the studs. I've also seen the ball bearings in the idlers fail from overheating because of the excess t-belt load, the ball retainers come apart and the bearing fails. I've been building these engines for 10 years now, cant count how many I've built and how many I've done work on the timing belt - never once have I had one come back for sheared studs, and that's because I have always followed the FSM and made sure to leave ample tensioner slack. I've never once just replaced those studs on any engine I've built for myself or for anyone else "just because" - there is no need to unless threads are stripped or the block was mishandled and led to the stud being bent, which in those cases I have replaced them. And dont call me lucky - luck has nothing to do with it. Proper timing belt tensioner slack is absolutely necessary to prevent this problem from happening.
Enthusiasts soon understand each other. --W. Irving.
Are you an enthusiast? If you are out to describe the truth, leave elegance to the
tailor.
Albert Einstein
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